Pocket watches are often reminiscent of upper crust society–gentlemen in their fancy suits, drinking brandies, casually reaching into their breast pockets to check the time. So smooth and debonair. Today, these relics of a sophisticated time gone by are very valuable collectibles. Many pocket watches were made in the mid-19th century so they are steeped in history which increases their worth.
Millions of old pockets watches were mass-produced in the 1800s. Some were of high quality. Others were of lesser quality. The way you can tell the difference is if the watch bears any jewels embedded in it. Another way of telling the difference between a high and low quality pocket watch is by examining the case that accompanies the watch. Many cases were gold-plated instead of solid gold. To differentiate, look at the back of the case. Gold-plated cases bear an inscription that guarantees the case will last 10 years. A solid gold case manufactured in Great Britain will show English marks.
Start your pocket watch collection by looking around for ladies’ fob watches. These delicate, intricately designed watches are worth a decent amount of money and are fairly easy to find. You can buy one for $150. A ladies’ fob watch from 1900 in a pansy design can be worth between $550-750. That’s quite a turnaround on your purchase. A fob watch is a small watch that hangs from a brooch or pin. They were made to be hung from a garment. Because they were decorative, they could be worn as an accessory.
An 18-karat gold Full Hunter Keyless Wind Pocket Watch designed by Waltham of Massachusetts (a popular watch company that championed machine-made watch production in the United States for about a century) is worth $350-550. Its fully-engraved case was made in Great Britain.
If you’re lucky enough to come across one, a precious metal minute-repeating Full Hunter Watch with a triple calendar and chronograph made in 1900 is worth $3,000-4,500. This 2 1/8” piece of machinery has complex craftsmanship which is part of the reason why it is so valuable. Its enamel dial displayed Roman numerals on the front and a small, flyback seconds hand.
If you’re looking for a very unique pocket watch that will make your collection stand out from others, look for an erotic pocket watch. These naughty watches displayed a risqué scene on the inside face. To be discreet, watchmakers put a cover on the front. Because erotic watches were illegal, watchmakers would often remain anonymous. If an erotic pocket watch was discovered, it would be seized and destroyed. For that fact alone, finding an erotic pocket watch intact is quite a collector’s find. One from the 19th century can be worth $1,800-2,700.
As you can see, pocket watches aren’t just for your grandfather. Beginning your own pocket watch collection can be lucrative if you have the patience to scout out one that are intricate or rare.
Source: Collectibles Magazine (Summer 2000)
